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Modern car keys have come a long way from the traditional cut metal blades of the past. What was once a simple tool for turning an ignition has evolved into a smart, encrypted device with layers of built-in security. Among the most critical components in today’s car keys is the transponder chip — a small but vital element that could be the reason your car doesn’t start after replacing your key shell.

If you've recently changed the shell or casing of your key and suddenly find that your car won’t start, you're not alone. This is one of the most common (and frustrating) issues car owners face when performing a key repair or upgrade. So let’s break down what’s really happening — and how you can fix it.

 

What Is a Transponder and What Does It Do?

A transponder chip (short for “transmitter-responder”) is a small electronic component embedded in your car key. Its purpose is to communicate with your vehicle’s immobilizer system to authorize ignition.

Here’s how it works:

When you insert your key and turn the ignition, your car sends out a radio signal.

The transponder chip in your key responds with a coded signal unique to your car.

If the code is correct, the car’s computer disables the immobilizer and allows the engine to start.

If the chip is missing, broken, or the code doesn’t match — the engine won’t start, even if the key blade physically turns.

This system is an anti-theft measure, and it's present in most vehicles manufactured after the late 1990s. Without a functional transponder, your key may unlock the doors but it will not allow the car to start. This ensures that even if someone manages to copy the physical blade of your key, they still can’t steal your car.

 

Why Your Key Might Not Work After Shell Replacement

Changing your key shell (also called a case or housing) can seem like a simple cosmetic repair — but it’s easy to overlook the importance of transferring the transponder chip during the process.

If your key no longer starts the car after a shell replacement, the most likely reason is:

You forgot to move the transponder chip into the new shell.

In many keys, the chip is not part of the electronics board. It’s often a tiny black or glass capsule, sometimes hidden in a small compartment within the key shell — completely separate from the buttons and battery. If you didn’t see it, it’s probably still sitting inside the old casing.

Some people assume that simply moving over the circuit board and battery is enough — but without the transponder, your key won’t be recognized by the car’s immobilizer. This results in the engine failing to start, even though the buttons may still lock and unlock the doors.

 

Symptoms of a Missing or Misplaced Transponder

If your key turns in the ignition but:

The car does not crank or start

You see a flashing key icon or immobilizer warning on the dashboard

The central locking might still work, but the engine won’t respond

You hear a clicking sound but no ignition occurs

Then it’s almost certainly a transponder issue. The car's system is waiting for a valid coded signal from the key — and without it, the start command is rejected.

 

How to Fix It: What You Need to Do

Here’s how to get your car running again:

1. Check Your Old Key Shell

Open the old casing and look for a small black or clear capsule (typically rice-sized). That’s your transponder chip. Some are glued in place and may require careful prying.

2. Transfer the Chip

Carefully remove it and insert it into the correct compartment in your new key shell. Some aftermarket shells have a specific slot for it, while others require a bit of creativity to keep it securely in place. In some cases, adhesive putty or double-sided tape can help hold it.

3. Reassemble and Test

Put your key back together and try starting the car again. If the chip is correctly placed, it should work immediately — no reprogramming needed. Always test both ignition and door lock/unlock functions.

 

What If You Lost the Chip?

Unfortunately, if the chip is damaged or lost, the key will no longer be able to start your vehicle. In this case, you’ll need to:

Contact a professional auto locksmith

Have a new transponder chip programmed to your car’s immobilizer system

Provide proof of ownership (such as your vehicle logbook or registration) in most cases

Depending on the make and model of your car, programming a new chip may cost anywhere from $50 to $250, and it typically requires special diagnostic equipment.

It’s worth noting that some dealerships may charge significantly more than independent auto locksmiths — and you may have to wait longer for service.

 

Pro Tips When Replacing Your Key Shell

Always examine the inside of your old shell carefully before throwing it away.

Take photos before disassembly so you know where each component goes.

If you're unsure where the chip is or how to transfer it, look for DIY videos specific to your key model.

Use tweezers and caution — the chip is fragile.

Avoid static electricity or contact with magnets during the transfer process.

Some modern keys have transponders integrated into the circuit board, in which case no separate chip needs to be moved.

If you’re working with a smart key or proximity key, additional steps may be required. These typically involve re-synchronization with the vehicle’s system and may not function correctly without professional assistance.

 

Small Chip, Big Consequences

It’s incredible how something as small as a transponder chip can control such a major function. Replacing your key shell is a great way to refresh the look and feel of your key — but it’s vital not to overlook the importance of transferring every component, especially the transponder.

Many DIY repairs are abandoned or lead to confusion simply because of this overlooked step. Fortunately, it’s one of the easiest problems to fix once you understand what to look for.

If your key looks brand new but your car won’t start, don’t panic. Chances are, the solution is sitting inside your old key shell — quietly waiting to be moved over.

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The Evolution of the Car Key: Unlocking the Future of Mobility

The Evolution of the Car Key: Unlocking the Future of Mobility

A Journey Through Time Imagine holding a car key from 1920 and trying to start a modern electric vehicle. The mere concept of what a “car key” represents has undergone a profound transformation, reflecting changes in automotive technology, security, and convenience. From simple mechanical tools to sophisticated digital devices, car keys have evolved alongside the vehicles they unlock. But how did we get here, and what does the future hold for this essential accessory? The Humble Beginnings: Mechanical Keys The car key’s story begins in the early 20th century, a time when cars were a luxury rather than a necessity. Early automobiles didn’t require keys as we know them today. Drivers used manual cranks to start the engine, a labor-intensive and often hazardous process. By the 1920s, the first generation of mechanical car keys emerged. These keys were simple, utilitarian devices used to lock the vehicle’s ignition or steering mechanisms. They marked the beginning of an era where security and convenience started to merge. Key features of early car keys included: A straightforward design, often a single-sided cut metal key. Limited security, as locks were rudimentary and easily picked. Despite their simplicity, these keys represented a revolutionary leap in vehicle security and usability. Entering the Electric Era: Ignition and Beyond The 1940s and 1950s saw a significant evolution in car keys with the introduction of ignition locks. These new systems required a key to start the vehicle, making cars both safer and easier to use. Manufacturers like Chrysler pioneered these innovations, creating a standard that would dominate for decades. The electric ignition systems introduced: A dual-purpose functionality: keys could unlock doors and start engines. Enhanced security, discouraging theft by eliminating manual starts. However, as automotive theft techniques became more sophisticated, so did the need for better security measures. The Advent of Remote Keyless Entry The 1980s and 1990s marked a pivotal period in the evolution of car keys with the introduction of remote keyless entry (RKE) systems. These keys included a built-in transmitter, allowing drivers to lock and unlock their cars with the push of a button. This innovation redefined convenience and set the stage for a digital future. Key highlights of RKE systems: Enhanced security with encrypted signals to prevent unauthorized access. Added features such as panic buttons and trunk releases. For many, the ability to control their car remotely became synonymous with modern luxury and convenience. Smart Keys and Digital Transformation As the 21st century arrived, car keys underwent another transformation, becoming “smart.” These keys, often shaped more like fobs than traditional keys, allowed for keyless ignition and entry. Equipped with proximity sensors, smart keys automatically unlock doors and start engines when the fob is nearby. Features of smart keys include: Passive entry and start systems, eliminating the need to physically insert a key. Advanced encryption technologies to combat modern car theft tactics. Automotive giants such as Mercedes-Benz and BMW led the charge in incorporating smart keys into their vehicles, reflecting a growing trend toward connectivity and automation. Biometric and Smartphone Integration: A Glimpse into the Future Today, the car key is on the brink of another revolution. Biometric systems and smartphone integration are becoming increasingly common, offering even greater security and convenience. Emerging trends include: Fingerprint and facial recognition systems : Some luxury vehicles now allow drivers to unlock and start their cars using biometric data. Digital keys : Smartphone apps are replacing physical keys entirely, enabling drivers to control their vehicles remotely. These innovations are part of a broader shift toward connected mobility. With digital ecosystems becoming central to the automotive experience, car keys are evolving into multifunctional tools that integrate seamlessly with a driver’s digital life. Global Perspectives: Trends Across Markets The evolution of car keys has not been uniform across the globe. In developed markets such as North America, Europe, and Japan, digital and smart keys dominate, reflecting advanced technological adoption. In contrast, mechanical keys remain prevalent in emerging economies, where affordability and simplicity often take precedence over cutting-edge innovation. Automotive manufacturers are responding to these differences by tailoring their offerings. For instance: In premium markets, luxury carmakers emphasize smart and biometric key systems as standard. In cost-sensitive regions, manufacturers offer basic mechanical or remote keys as a practical solution. These distinctions highlight the diverse ways in which the car key continues to evolve, shaped by cultural, economic, and technological factors. The Challenges Ahead: Balancing Innovation and Security While modern car keys offer unparalleled convenience, they also come with challenges. Cybersecurity threats, such as hacking and relay attacks, pose significant risks to digital and smart key systems. Industry experts emphasize the need for robust encryption and regular software updates to mitigate these risks. Moreover, the shift toward digital keys raises concerns about dependency on smartphones. What happens if a phone runs out of battery or malfunctions? Manufacturers are exploring hybrid solutions that combine digital and physical access to address such scenarios. Unlocking the Future The evolution of the car key mirrors the broader changes in automotive technology, from mechanical simplicity to digital sophistication. As we move toward an era of autonomous and connected vehicles, the humble car key is poised to become an even more integral part of our mobility experience. For now, car keys remain a fascinating blend of past, present, and future. Whether it’s a vintage metal key or a cutting-edge biometric system, they continue to unlock not just our vehicles but also the stories of innovation and progress. The next time you hold your car key—be it physical, smart, or digital—pause for a moment to appreciate the journey it represents. Who knows? In a few decades, we might be reminiscing about keys altogether as we step into fully autonomous, keyless vehicles.

Everything You Should Know About Key Fob Battery Life, Leaks, and Temperature Effects

Everything You Should Know About Key Fob Battery Life, Leaks, and Temperature Effects

The convenience of a modern car key fob is hard to overstate — it unlocks doors, starts engines, and sometimes even controls your car remotely. But at the heart of all these features lies a small coin battery, usually a CR2032, that powers your fob’s every function. Like all batteries, it doesn’t last forever, and certain conditions can shorten its lifespan or cause unexpected problems like leaks. In this guide, we’ll explore how long your key fob battery should last, what causes leaks, and how temperature plays a critical role in battery performance. How Long Do Key Fob Batteries Typically Last? Most key fobs use lithium coin batteries like the CR2032. These are designed for small electronic devices and typically last between two to four years, depending on how often you use your fob and how close it stays to your vehicle. Constant use — such as frequent locking and unlocking — can deplete the battery faster. If your smart key remains within range of your car at all times, it may draw more power passively. Another key factor is the quality of the battery. High-grade batteries like those from Panasonic usually last longer and offer more consistent voltage. You’ll know it’s time for a replacement when the fob works only at short distances, you need to press buttons more than once, or the indicator light becomes dim or fails to light up at all. Catching these early signs is important, as a simple battery replacement can prevent unexpected lockouts or costly service calls. Battery Leaks in Key Fobs: Risks and Prevention Though not as common, a leaking battery can be far more destructive than a dead one. Leakage can corrode the internal components of your key fob, sometimes making it unusable. Signs of a leak include white residue inside the battery compartment, visible corrosion on the metal contacts, or a strange smell or dampness near the battery slot. Leaks often occur in batteries that are expired, low-quality, or exposed to extreme heat or moisture. To reduce the risk of leaks, it's a good idea to replace your key fob battery every two years, regardless of performance. Always use reputable brands such as Panasonic CR2032 , and store spare batteries in a cool, dry place. Also avoid mixing new and old batteries, even temporarily. If you notice any signs of leakage, remove the battery promptly and clean the compartment using a cotton swab and isopropyl alcohol. If the corrosion is severe, replacing the key fob casing or consulting a specialist may be necessary. How Temperature Affects Your Key Fob Battery Life Ambient temperature can have a major effect on battery efficiency. In cold conditions, the chemical reactions within a lithium coin battery slow down, resulting in reduced voltage and sluggish or inconsistent performance. A key fob left overnight in freezing temperatures might stop working until it warms up. On the flip side, high temperatures accelerate battery depletion. Leaving your key fob inside a hot car or near a heat source can shorten its lifespan and, in rare cases, even cause the battery to leak. Heat can also warp internal components, especially in compact spaces like key fobs. To protect your battery, avoid exposing your key fob to direct sunlight or intense heat for long periods. Don’t store it in jackets or compartments that get hot in summer, and try to keep a spare battery handy if you live in an area with extreme seasonal swings. Choosing temperature-resistant batteries — like those from Panasonic — adds another layer of protection. Key fob batteries are small but essential parts of modern car ownership. Understanding their typical lifespan, recognizing early signs of failure or leakage, and knowing how temperature affects their performance can help you avoid unpleasant surprises. With a little foresight, you can keep your key fob working smoothly for years. Replace the battery every two to three years, choose high-quality brands, and take precautions during temperature extremes. A few minutes of care now can save you from frustration later.

What to Do If You Lose Your Car Keys While Travelling?

What to Do If You Lose Your Car Keys While Travelling?

1. Why this happens and why you must act fast Losing car keys while travelling is more common than you might assume. Whether it’s slipping out of a beach bag, leaving them at a café or dropping in transit, your vehicle becomes vulnerable. In addition, modern keys increasingly contain electronic transponders , chips or fobs—meaning replacement cost and complexity shoot up. When you’re away from home, both the stress and the stakes increase: you may face towing, expensive replacements or worse — being stranded. The sooner you act the less time you give for theft, theft-of-opportunity or further cost escalation. 2. Immediate steps when you realise your keys are missing a) Stay calm and retrace your steps Start by pausing. Panic hampers clear thinking. Consider the last time you remember using your keys: in the car, on unloading luggage, at hotel reception. Retrace your route slowly. As RAC advise, this step often resolves the problem without cost. b) Search systematically Check all pockets, bags, seats, coat hangers, beach bags, under cushions, in and around your car. If you’re staying somewhere temporarily, check hotel rooms, fuelling stations, parking lots. As one travel-site suggests: “Go through all your pockets… look around all surfaces in your hotel room”. c) Contact places you visited Call restaurants, cafés, shops, airport parking or hotels where you parked the vehicle. Key finders are often handed in. d) Assess risk of theft If you suspect the keys were stolen (pick-pocket, hotel burglary or unattended vehicle) you should alert local police and your insurance provider—once a key is missing, your vehicle security is compromised. e) Secure the vehicle If the vehicle is parked in an insecure location, consider moving it (if possible) or arranging towing. Leaving it locked but unattended increases theft risk. 3. How to use replacement key delivery services Replacement key delivery refers to services that cut and program a new car key and deliver it (or have it fitted) to your location—whether your holiday base, airport car park or home driveway. Steps to follow: Have vehicle details ready: make, model, year, registration number, VIN if available. Choose service: For UK and travel users, many auto-locksmiths offer mobile services that come to you. Confirm delivery logistics: Where is the vehicle parked? Will you be present when the key is delivered or fitted? If abroad, is the company able to support your location? Understand key type: Basic mechanical, transponder chip key, keyless fob—all vary in price and logistics. Check old key de-activation: A top provider will delete the lost key’s code so it cannot be used in future—critical for security. Why this is often your best path while travelling Going via your vehicle manufacturer dealer is often slower and pricier — as UK guide notes: “The quickest and least expensive way … is via an auto locksmith.” In a foreign locale, a mobile specialist or key-delivery service saves towing the vehicle and waiting for factory part shipment. 4. Hiring an emergency locksmith: what to look for When you’re locked out or stranded, an emergency locksmith (24-hour) can be your lifeline. But not all are equal. Checklist: Confirm they specialise in auto locksmith / car key replacement , not just domestic locks. Ask for credentials (affiliation with industry body). Insist on proof they will delete/pair the key to your vehicle (so lost key becomes useless). Understand travel/overseas call-out charges. Before arrival, ask for an estimate and payment process (card, cash etc.). Some holiday locales only accept cash. Stay with your vehicle in a safe public place. If you are on a remote vacation site, move to well-lit area before the locksmith arrives. Typical process: The locksmith arrives, verifies ownership (ID + logbook/V5C). They cut and/or program a key, or fix the lock/immobiliser if required. You pay for service and receive the new key — vehicle is back on the road. 5. Insurance, roadside cover and overseas travel issues Insurance/key cover Do you have lost key cover? Most UK car insurance policies don’t include lost keys as standard. You might need a premium add-on. If you claim, your no-claims bonus may be affected. Breakdown/roadside assistance Your breakdown provider (e.g., Motorway or RAC ) may offer key services, but often their vans don’t carry full key-programming equipment. So an auto locksmith still may be needed. Travelling abroad Check if your insurance/cover extends to the country you’re in. Confirm language support and local currency charges with any service you call. If you rented the car: contact the rental company immediately — they may have specific protocols for lost keys (often expensive). 6. Special cases: rental vehicles, keyless entry & fobs Rental vehicles When you lose the keys to a hire car abroad, you are likely to be liable for high fees. Rental companies will likely charge for towing and replacement, not just the locksmith. According to travel forums: “We do not offer coverage for lost keys… The replacement fee of $125 for lost key.” Call the rental agency, follow their instructions, and keep all receipts. Keyless / smart keys & modern cars Most vehicles since 2000 use transponder chips or keyless systems. Replacement these can cost several hundred pounds—UK guides show typical range from £100–£300 or more depending on brand. When you lose a keyless fob, you may need the original still in possession or need the vehicle brought to the dealer. Factor this potential delay into your travel plans. Single key left If you only have one remaining key, treat it as your last key. Get a spare made ASAP once you’re home so you’re not in the same situation again. 7. Preventative measures for your next trip Always carry a spare key at home or with a trusted person. Use a tracker (such as an AirTag or Bluetooth key-tracker) on your keyring. UK blogs suggest this simple tech helps locate lost keys. Establish a routine spot where you place your keys at the start of every journey. If you have old keys (house + car), don’t mix them during travel. Note down your vehicle details (make, model, registration, VIN) in your phone before travelling—so you’re ready if you need a replacement. For holiday car hire, take a photo of the key and keep the rental company’s emergency phone number saved. FAQ Q: What happens if I lose my only car key and I’m abroad? A: You’ll need to contact an auto locksmith or dealer who can cut and program a new key. Have vehicle details ready. Expect cost and waiting time to increase since you have no spare. Q: Can I just use a dealer to replace the key? A: Yes, but often it’s slower and more expensive . UK guides claim mobile auto locksmiths are typically faster and cheaper. Q: How long does replacement take? A: For many modern cars, the physical key can be cut quickly, but programming and blank arrival may take days. Dealers might take up to weeks. Q: Will my car insurance cover a lost key? A: Only if you have key-cover added or your insurance includes it—not standard. Check your policy. Claiming may affect your no-claims status. Q: What should I do if I lose the key and my car is locked in a remote place? A: First make sure you are safe. Then use your breakdown/roadside cover to move the vehicle to a safe area if needed. Then call an emergency auto locksmith to attend and provide a replacement. Need a reliable solution now? Visit our shop at mr-key.com to discover how we can cut and deliver replacement car keys swiftly—even when you’re travelling.

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR 2. engine speed 2250 rpm OR 3. inlet air temperature <-5 ° C. BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flapss: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

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