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When you think about how hot weather affects your vehicle, your first thoughts might go to the engine, the tires, or maybe even the air conditioning. But there’s one small, essential part of your daily driving routine that’s often overlooked — your car key fob. It might seem like a tough little device, but the truth is, it’s far more sensitive than it looks. If you’ve ever left your key fob on the dashboard, in a hot glove box, or even inside your pocket during a heatwave, you may have already caused damage without realizing it.

Car key fobs are built with delicate electronics, plastic shells, and lithium coin batteries — all of which are vulnerable to extreme temperatures. In this article, you’ll learn how hot weather affects each part of your key fob, how to spot the early signs of damage, and most importantly, what you can do to protect it. Taking just a few simple steps can save you from the cost and inconvenience of a non-functioning remote, especially when you least expect it.

The Plastic Shell: First to Feel the Heat

One of the first things to suffer from heat exposure is the plastic casing that protects your key fob. While it’s designed to withstand everyday use — being dropped, tossed in a bag, or handled frequently — it’s not built to survive hours in a baking-hot car. The interior temperature of a parked vehicle can soar past 60 or even 70 degrees Celsius on a sunny day, especially if the key is sitting directly in sunlight. Over time, this level of heat can soften the plastic, causing it to warp, bend, or even split at the seams.

You may start to notice that your key doesn’t close as tightly as it used to, or the buttons may feel soft and spongy instead of firm. Cracks might appear along the sides, or parts of the shell may become discolored. While this might seem like a cosmetic issue at first, it has serious implications — a compromised shell allows moisture, dust, and debris to enter the fob, putting the internal electronics at risk. If your key fob’s shell is already showing signs of wear, especially after a hot summer, it’s time to consider replacing the casing before the damage gets worse.

Battery Breakdown: How Heat Drains Power

Inside your key fob, there’s usually a small lithium battery — typically a CR2032 coin cell. These batteries are reliable under normal conditions, but they don’t respond well to high temperatures. In fact, exposure to extreme heat can accelerate chemical breakdown inside the battery, leading to faster discharge and a shorter overall lifespan. What’s worse, in severe cases, the battery can swell or leak, which can damage the internal components of your fob permanently.

If you’ve ever noticed your key fob suddenly stops working or becomes unreliable during the summer, there’s a good chance the battery is struggling under heat stress. The signal may become weaker, you might have to press buttons multiple times, or the remote might stop responding altogether. Replacing the battery is a quick and inexpensive fix, but it’s important to recognize that battery issues are often just the first symptom of deeper heat-related problems.

Internal Electronics: Silent Victims of the Heat

While the shell and battery are easier to see and replace, the most serious damage often happens silently — deep inside the electronic circuit board. This board, often referred to as the platine, is responsible for all communication between your key and your vehicle. It’s a compact, delicate system of soldered connections and microchips, and unfortunately, it’s not designed to cope with repeated thermal stress.

When your key fob is exposed to fluctuating high temperatures, the constant expansion and contraction of materials can loosen solder joints or weaken connections. Moisture that gets trapped inside the shell during humid summer months can accelerate corrosion, especially if the casing is already cracked or loose. The damage might not be immediate, but over time you may find that your key fob becomes unpredictable — sometimes it works, other times it doesn’t, and eventually, it might stop working completely.

What You Can Do to Prevent Heat Damage

The good news is that most heat-related damage to key fobs is preventable with just a little care and awareness. First, never leave your key fob inside a parked car for extended periods, especially not in direct sunlight. It’s easy to toss your keys into the cup holder or leave them on the dashboard while you run errands, but those few minutes can expose them to dangerous levels of heat. Instead, keep your keys on you or store them in a shaded, temperature-controlled area.

If you’re regularly in hot environments — such as driving in warm climates or working outdoors — consider investing in a protective silicone or leather cover. These not only shield the shell from heat exposure but also provide added protection against drops and dirt. You should also make it a habit to replace your battery once a year, even if it seems to be working fine. Batteries weakened by heat can fail suddenly, and a fresh cell ensures your key fob keeps working when you need it most.

Finally, if your key fob’s shell is visibly worn or loose, replace it immediately. Many online stores, including Mr Key, offer affordable replacement shells that are easy to install and give your remote a like-new feel. Don’t wait for the damage to reach the internal electronics — by then, repair options are limited and usually more expensive.

Protect Your Key, Protect Your Drive

Your car key fob might be small, but it plays a huge role in your daily routine. From unlocking doors to starting your engine, it’s a modern convenience we all depend on — until it stops working. And while many drivers are careful with their car’s mechanical systems, few think twice about leaving their key fob in the heat. Now that you know how much damage summer temperatures can cause, you can take the steps needed to protect your key before it’s too late.

If you’re looking for high-quality key shell replacements, batteries like the CR2032, or even complete key fobs compatible with your vehicle, Mr Key has you covered. Our online shop offers trusted parts for Peugeot, Citroën, Nissan, Suzuki, Fiat, and more — all designed to help you repair and maintain your car keys quickly and affordably.

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Removing Keys from Locks: A Comprehensive Guide

Removing Keys from Locks: A Comprehensive Guide

Removing a key from a lock may seem simple, but it can become tricky when dealing with stuck or broken keys. Whether you're dealing with a standard lock, padlock, or vehicle ignition, understanding the correct techniques can save you from damage and frustration. This guide will walk you through the essential steps for removing keys from various types of locks, offering practical advice and tips to ensure a smooth process. Common Scenarios and Challenges Keys can become stuck or difficult to remove for several reasons, including misalignment, wear and tear, or damage to the key or lock. Additionally, environmental factors like temperature changes can cause metals to expand or contract, making key removal more challenging. Recognizing the cause of the issue is the first step in effectively addressing it. Basic Techniques for Key Removal Gentle Wiggle and Pull: The first technique to try is a gentle wiggle and pull. Hold the key firmly and move it slightly up and down or side to side while pulling gently. This method works well if the key is simply stuck due to misalignment. Lubrication: If the key is difficult to remove, applying a small amount of graphite powder or a silicone-based lubricant into the keyhole can help. Avoid using oil-based lubricants, as they can attract dirt and grime, potentially worsening the problem. Tapping the Lock: For stubborn cases, lightly tapping the lock with a hammer while gently pulling the key can help dislodge it. This method is effective when the key is stuck due to debris or minor misalignments within the lock. Advanced Techniques for Stuck Keys Using a Key Extractor: If the key is broken off inside the lock, a key extractor tool can be very effective. Insert the tool into the keyhole, hook the broken key piece, and pull it out carefully. This method requires patience and a steady hand. Pliers and Tweezers: If part of the key is still protruding, you can use needle-nose pliers or tweezers to grip and pull the key out. Be careful not to apply too much force, as this can push the key further into the lock or damage the lock mechanism. Heat Application: In cold weather, metal contracts, which can cause the key to get stuck. Gently heating the key with a hairdryer or warm cloth can expand the metal slightly, making it easier to remove. However, avoid using an open flame, as it can damage the lock or key. Preventing Key Stuck Issues Prevention is always better than cure. Here are some tips to prevent keys from getting stuck in the future: Regular Maintenance: Keep your locks and keys clean and well-lubricated with appropriate materials. Regularly inspect for wear and tear, and replace any damaged keys or locks. Use Duplicate Keys: If you notice a key becoming difficult to use, have a duplicate made before it breaks or becomes stuck. This will save you the hassle of dealing with a stuck key. Avoid Excessive Force: Never force a key into a lock. If it doesn’t turn easily, stop and inspect both the key and the lock for damage or obstruction. When to Call a Professional While many stuck key issues can be resolved with the techniques mentioned above, there are times when professional assistance is necessary. If you’ve tried all the methods and the key remains stuck, or if you’re dealing with a high-security lock, it’s best to contact a professional locksmith. They have the tools and expertise to safely remove the key without damaging the lock or key further. Dealing with a stuck key can be frustrating, but understanding the proper techniques can save you time and prevent damage. From basic wiggling and lubrication to more advanced methods like using a key extractor, there are various approaches depending on the severity of the situation. Regular maintenance and careful handling can help prevent these issues from occurring in the first place. When in doubt, don’t hesitate to seek professional help to ensure your lock and key remain in good working condition.

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR engine speed 2250 rpm OR inlet air temperature <-5 ° C BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flaps: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

The Complete Guide to Car Key Cutting: Everything You Need to Know

The Complete Guide to Car Key Cutting: Everything You Need to Know

Unlocking the Mysteries of Car Key Cutting Have you ever been in a situation where you needed a spare car key or had to replace a lost one? Car key cutting is an essential process for creating duplicate keys or replacements, but it’s often misunderstood. From traditional keys to modern transponder and smart keys, the art of key cutting has evolved dramatically with advancements in technology. This guide will walk you through the key cutting process, its types, and when professional help is required, helping you navigate the complexities of car key duplication with confidence. What Is Car Key Cutting? Car key cutting is the process of creating a new key that matches the physical shape and specifications of your vehicle’s locks and ignition. This process involves cutting the metal key blade to fit the car’s lock mechanism precisely. For modern cars, this may also include programming the electronic components of the key, such as transponder chips or remote controls. The method used for cutting a car key depends on the type of key and the car model. Traditional keys are simpler to cut, while transponder and smart keys require specialized tools and expertise. Types of Car Keys and Cutting Methods Traditional Keys These are the classic mechanical keys used in older vehicles. Cutting these keys involves duplicating the grooves and ridges of the original key using a key-cutting machine. Transponder Keys Found in most modern cars, transponder keys contain a microchip that communicates with the car’s computer. After cutting the blade, these keys must also be programmed to function. Smart Keys These advanced keys use wireless communication to interact with the car. They don’t require physical cutting but involve programming to sync with the vehicle. Each type of key requires a different approach and level of expertise, making it essential to know what kind of key you have before proceeding with duplication. The Key Cutting Process: Step by Step Identify the Key Type Determine whether you have a traditional, transponder, or smart key. This will dictate the tools and process needed for cutting and programming. Gather Required Information Provide the key cutter with details about your car, such as the make, model, and year. For some keys, a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) may be required. Cutting the Key Blade For traditional and transponder keys, the blade is cut using a key duplicator or a laser key-cutting machine. Precision is crucial to ensure the key fits perfectly in the lock. Programming (if required) For transponder and smart keys, the key must be programmed to the car’s computer system. This step may require specialized equipment or professional expertise. When to Seek Professional Help While traditional keys can often be duplicated at local hardware stores, transponder and smart keys typically require specialized tools and knowledge. Professional locksmiths and dealerships are equipped to handle these advanced key types, ensuring proper cutting and programming. Reasons to choose a professional: Complexity: Smart and transponder keys require technical expertise. Accuracy: Professionals use precise equipment to ensure the key functions flawlessly. Programming Needs: Only trained specialists can program keys to sync with your vehicle. Cost of Car Key Cutting The cost of cutting a car key varies depending on the type of key and the service provider. Traditional keys are the most affordable, typically costing between $10 and $50. Transponder and smart keys, however, can range from $50 to $300 or more due to the additional programming required. Tips to save money: Have a spare key: This simplifies the duplication process and reduces costs. Compare prices: Contact multiple locksmiths or dealerships to find the best deal. Be Prepared for Every Key Emergency Car key cutting is a vital service for any car owner, whether you’re duplicating a spare key or replacing a lost one. Understanding the process and knowing when to seek professional help can save you time, money, and frustration. By staying informed and proactive, you can ensure that your vehicle remains accessible and secure, no matter what challenges arise.

How to Identify the Right Replacement Key Shell for Your Car

How to Identify the Right Replacement Key Shell for Your Car

If your car key shell is cracked, worn, or the buttons no longer press properly, replacing it with a new shell is often the most affordable and effective solution. But one major challenge stands in the way: figuring out exactly which replacement shell you need. With so many variations in blade types, button layouts, and internal compatibility, it’s easy to buy the wrong part—and waste both time and money. This guide breaks down how to identify the correct key shell for your car, so you can upgrade or replace your damaged remote housing without confusion. Step 1: Identify Your Key Blade Type One of the most important features is the key blade. Even within the same car brand, different models and years may use different blade types. Two of the most common are: HU83 blade – Used by many Peugeot and Citroën models. It has a curved groove on both sides. VA2 blade – Similar in appearance but has a flat groove instead of a curve. Other types include TOY43, TOY47, and SIP22, often used in Toyota, Fiat, and other manufacturers. If you're unsure, comparing your blade side-by-side with online reference images helps avoid errors. Tip: Never rely only on the number of buttons—focus on the blade profile first. Step 2: Count and Match the Button Layout Next, verify how many buttons your original key has, and in what layout. Common options include: 2 buttons: Lock / Unlock 3 buttons: Lock / Unlock / Trunk Smart keys: May have a more complex layout or hidden emergency blade Even a small difference in layout can prevent the rubber buttons from pressing the internal switches correctly. Also check whether the button pad is integrated into the case or if it’s a separate piece. That may affect your fit. Step 3: Check the Internal Electronics Placement When swapping a shell, you’ll be transferring the circuit board and (in most cases) a transponder chip. The replacement case must have: The same mounting points and slots Space for the battery (check if yours is CR1620, CR2032, etc.) A similar design to support the flip mechanism, if your original key has one If the internal layout doesn’t match, your circuit board may not sit securely—or your buttons may not work. Bonus tip: Open your old key carefully and take photos of the internal structure before ordering a shell. Step 4: Consider the Key Type – Flip or Fixed There are two main styles: Flip keys: Blade folds into the case and pops out with a button press Fixed blade keys: Blade is static and exposed You must match your replacement with the original style, unless you're intentionally upgrading. Flip key conversions are popular, but they require extra parts and a bit more installation effort. Step 5: Check the Model Compatibility List Many key shells are marketed as being compatible with a range of car models. Look for a list that includes: Your vehicle’s make and model The production years (e.g., “Peugeot 207 2010–2014”) Even then, cross-reference with your physical key—models change subtly across production years. Step 6: Know What You're Not Getting A replacement key shell typically does not include: The circuit board (you must transfer it from your old key) The transponder chip A pre-cut blade (unless stated) You’ll likely need to cut the new blade or reuse the old one if it's detachable. Choosing the right replacement key shell doesn't have to be trial and error. By focusing on blade type, button layout, and internal structure, you can confidently find a case that fits your needs—and your key electronics. It’s a simple fix that extends the life of your existing key without the cost of a full replacement. Just take your time, check the details, and match your original key carefully. A few minutes of inspection now can save hours of hassle later.

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