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How to Identify the Right Replacement Key Shell for Your Car

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25.03.2025

If your car key shell is cracked, worn, or the buttons no longer press properly, replacing it with a new shell is often the most affordable and effective solution. But one major challenge stands in the way: figuring out exactly which replacement shell you need. With so many variations in blade types, button layouts, and internal compatibility, it’s easy to buy the wrong part—and waste both time and money.

This guide breaks down how to identify the correct key shell for your car, so you can upgrade or replace your damaged remote housing without confusion.

 

Step 1: Identify Your Key Blade Type

One of the most important features is the key blade. Even within the same car brand, different models and years may use different blade types. Two of the most common are:

HU83 blade – Used by many Peugeot and Citroën models. It has a curved groove on both sides.

VA2 blade – Similar in appearance but has a flat groove instead of a curve.

Other types include TOY43, TOY47, and SIP22, often used in Toyota, Fiat, and other manufacturers. If you're unsure, comparing your blade side-by-side with online reference images helps avoid errors.

Tip: Never rely only on the number of buttons—focus on the blade profile first.

 

Step 2: Count and Match the Button Layout

Next, verify how many buttons your original key has, and in what layout. Common options include:

2 buttons: Lock / Unlock

3 buttons: Lock / Unlock / Trunk

Smart keys: May have a more complex layout or hidden emergency blade

Even a small difference in layout can prevent the rubber buttons from pressing the internal switches correctly.

Also check whether the button pad is integrated into the case or if it’s a separate piece. That may affect your fit.

 

Step 3: Check the Internal Electronics Placement

When swapping a shell, you’ll be transferring the circuit board and (in most cases) a transponder chip. The replacement case must have:

The same mounting points and slots

Space for the battery (check if yours is CR1620, CR2032, etc.)

A similar design to support the flip mechanism, if your original key has one

If the internal layout doesn’t match, your circuit board may not sit securely—or your buttons may not work.

Bonus tip: Open your old key carefully and take photos of the internal structure before ordering a shell.

 

Step 4: Consider the Key Type – Flip or Fixed

There are two main styles:

Flip keys: Blade folds into the case and pops out with a button press

Fixed blade keys: Blade is static and exposed

You must match your replacement with the original style, unless you're intentionally upgrading. Flip key conversions are popular, but they require extra parts and a bit more installation effort.

 

Step 5: Check the Model Compatibility List

Many key shells are marketed as being compatible with a range of car models. Look for a list that includes:

Your vehicle’s make and model

The production years (e.g., “Peugeot 207 2010–2014”)

Even then, cross-reference with your physical key—models change subtly across production years.

 

Step 6: Know What You're Not Getting

A replacement key shell typically does not include:

The circuit board (you must transfer it from your old key)

The transponder chip

A pre-cut blade (unless stated)

You’ll likely need to cut the new blade or reuse the old one if it's detachable.

 

Choosing the right replacement key shell doesn't have to be trial and error. By focusing on blade type, button layout, and internal structure, you can confidently find a case that fits your needs—and your key electronics.

It’s a simple fix that extends the life of your existing key without the cost of a full replacement. Just take your time, check the details, and match your original key carefully.

A few minutes of inspection now can save hours of hassle later.

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Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

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